Lan Zhou Noodle Bar - Soho

Review

I have been away from the blogosphere for a while and to hold out an olive branch, here is my closest held secret – 33 Cranbourn Street. 5 seconds from Leicester Square station is this extraordinary hole-in-the-wall that serves up what can only be described as a truly ridiculous experience. You will be ushered beyond the sweet and sour somethings that adorn the front of the shop, presented cafeteria-style, no doubt for the hoards of tourists in this part of town that don’t know better. You’ll be seated at a bench, most likely opposite or next to a stranger and gruffly given your menu and then feel a tiny bit uncomfortable at how cramped the joint is. Don’t worry, it gets better. You will hopefully plump for the stewed beef la mian and wonder why it is so cheap; I mean, you must have made a poor choice choosing this place, it’s cheap for a reason.

Then sit back, relax and take in the drama. Like a refined dancer, one of the chefs in the tiny open kitchen will start pulling and twisting your noodled by hand until they are ready for cooking – he will move with grace and precision and entirely effortlessly. When he tops your noodles with sumptuous, soft, mind-numbingly tender beef and pak choi, coriander and a rich, savoury, deep broth … brace yourself, as your time has almost arrived.

Then you will tuck into a £6.50 bowl of absolute perfection. Here you have an unbelievably balanced band of flavours. The moreish broth is wonderfully tempered by beef that with hours of stewing has become sweet. The buttery pak choi and bunches of fresh coriander will give you a fresh vibrant kick. This place is rare gem - packed full of drama, honest in its objective, uncomplicated and uncompromising food. There is no faff here but immeasurable charm and simply amazing comfort food.